Japan House is back with another enriching programme, this time taking root in Biratori, Hokkaido, situated by the heart of the Saru river. When speaking of preserving a culture, many picture something that is delicate and ancient, in danger of extinction without conservation. But there’s something different about the Ainu people. Rather than stopping the culture in time like a fly trapped in amber, its supporters have celebrated its ongoing movement alongside a contemporary lifestyle. At the Ainu Stories press preview several representatives of the Biratori Ainu Cultural Preservation Association came to share their practices, to even sing and dance, and overall to showcase something that is very much alive and breathing.
Beginning in the present, the tour focuses on the Ainu of today, with a back-to-front structure that ends in the history of the Ainu people. One of these contemporary collaborations displayed is a manga called Golden Kamuy, which follows a young Ainu protagonist on her adventures. The manga artist, Satoru Noda, had worked closely with the Nibutani community to show aspects of the culture accurately, including the use of the makiri knife. Around the hall are various other things to peer at, including displays of their traditional kaparamip robes which the spokespeople also wore, characterised by their striking white appliques of special Ainu patterns in perfect symmetry. One may also recognise these similar patterns on the ita (wood carved trays) exhibited nearby, which are one of the things Ainu are especially known for.
There’s so much to enjoy and learn from a people that truly care about sharing their culture, without restricting it from being touched by the modern day. In addition to the textiles and wood carving sections are exhibits on Ainu language, agriculture, and a vibrant display of their food culture, boasting a menu that often features their staple food millet, wild lily bulbs, and salmon, demonstrating their life close to the river. The centrepieces of the exhibition might be the 12 Ainu people’s stories played on monitors along the walls sat around the exhibits, to be immersed in at leisure.
The rhythm of Ainu people sparks a fire in its bearers’ hearts. Press were treated to members of the Ainu community gathered round to perform an emus-rimse (ceremonial sword dance), and it’s something to want to be part of. Two dancers began by weaving between the other’s movements, constantly mirroring one another, swaying along to the rhythm of the women’s singing. The singing and clapping increases as the tension builds, with the occasional vocal ululation adding on to the pulsating rhythm. The swordsmen face one another, stooping lower in their movements, and as they draw their swords, there’s a chorus of calls that surrounds them. At the climax of the song they enact a fight, their swords clashing in sync with the performers’ claps. It’s a thrilling sequence that tells a simple story. Visitors can see videos of similar Ainu performances upon their visit.
Visitors of the exhibition were met with a warmth from the Ainu representatives, and enjoyed their cheerful spirit during the performance. The people who aim to promote this unique culture do so with an aura of positivity and vigour, which is truly a reflection of the personalities of the people. And just like the sword dance, the culture is full of life today. After experiencing such an exhibition, a visitor comes to understand why they chose to start in the present. The passing of time is no match for the magnetic joy of the Ainu people.
Ainu Stories: Contemporary Lives by the Saru River is showing at Japan House London now. Find out more and book tickets here.
